Helix Piercing - What To Know & FAQs Answered, According to Pros

May 2024 · 7 minute read

You’ve probably seen helix piercings around. Whether it’s dainty detail or a bold statement, they're always perched toward the top of the ear, giving you an easy way to switch up your look. 

Maybe you’ve been thinking about getting a helix piercing for a while to complete your ear-scape. Maybe this is the first you’re hearing of it, and you want to know what’s so hot about this celebrity-loved piercing (just Google the ears of Lily Allen, Cardi B and Miley Cyrus, then you'll know). Either way, we’ve got you covered.

Read on to learn exactly what a helix is and whether a piercing there is more painful than the rest of the ear. Most importantly, you’ll learn about essential piercing aftercare to ensure speedy healing.

What is a helix piercing?

“A helix piercing is any piercing along the upper and outside cartilage ridge of the ear,” says Studs piercer Shannon Freed. Anatomically, the term helix describes that area of the ear, but there are names for different placements along that curve. 

Piercer Laura Bond explains that the flat area at the top of the ear, immediately below the helix, is known as the ‘flat helix’.  “The forward helix is the part of the helix closest to the side of the face, where the ear attaches to the head, directly above the tragus," she tells us. "It's a small surface area but dainty studs or hoops fitted there will face forwards - hence the name.”

What is a double helix piercing?

“A Double helix consists of two close piercings that require technical precision to ensure perfectly spaced placements,” explains Maria Tash piercer Kevin Lamb. “It should be done with matching angles that complement each other and the client’s chosen jewellery.”

Do helix piercings hurt?

Let’s get real about helix piercing pain. Does it actually hurt more than the lobe? “Pain tolerance varies, but generally your helix will hurt more than your lobes as it is less fleshy,” says Freed. Cartilage tissue is denser, which can require more force to pierce through, resulting in a bit more pain. But the pain is temporary, and your beautiful new piercing is forever.

Bond adds that most people have fairly thin cartilage around their helix, so it’s one of the less painful cartilage piercings. “At Laura Bond we say it’s around a 5-6/10 for pain.”

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How long does a helix piercing take to heal?

“Healing is subjective and is dependent on factors such as your overall health, sleep and stress levels, and your aftercare regimen,” says Freed. Makes sense, as our bodies react to and recover from physical stressors at different rates. But if you’re looking for an average estimate, Freed says at least two months. “The initial healing time for a helix piercing is two-to-four months. For the piercing to be fully healed, it takes six-to-nine months. Healing timelines will vary based on your specific piercing and your body, but you’ll know your ear is healed once any discharge, swelling, redness, flaking, or soreness stops.”

“It does take longer than a lobe piercing because cartridge doesn't have its own blood supply,” adds Emma Beizsley at White Thorn Piercing. “That's why it tends to swell a bit more and take longer to heal.” 

How do you take care of a helix piercing?

Proper aftercare is key to avoiding any complications. Freed’s recommendation is to keep your hands off the fresh piercing. “Don’t touch or twist,” Freed says. “Spray saline front and back no more than twice a day. You’ll also want to be careful of snags and sleeping on the piercing, as this disrupts the healing process.”

When you are cleaning, it’s important to stick to saline solution. Your piercer should supply you with a saline spray to take home (the pro piercers we spoke to all recommended NeilMed, which you can get on Amazon). The salt helps pull out excess discharge while increasing blood circulation. You’ll want to avoid rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide or ointments, as they can dry out and further irritate your piercing, which will extend the total healing time.

Beizsley adds that its important to dry the ear after applying your saline solution, by gently dabbing it with a piece of dry, non-woven gauze or kitchen paper. “A new wound that is warm and moist is the perfect breeding ground for bacteria,” she explains. “You can even dry off your piercing with a warm hairdryer, but make sure the piercing is clean, as you could drive bacteria further into the wound." A Dyson is the most hygienic option, if you happen to have one."

How do you sleep with a helix piercing? 

“Standing up!” jokes Lamb. “I’m joking, of course. I generally ask my clients to use a travel pillow, the ones you wear on flights around your neck. But when caring for your ear, put your ear in the centre of the hole, instead.” He also asks clients to wash the pillow beforehand, as it’s hard to keep things sanitary while traveling. “You could also try sleeping on your other side, or on your back, but that can be a hard habit to get into.”

What should I do about an infected helix piercing?

“Some people confuse irritation with infection. While some irritation is common, with the right aftercare, there shouldn’t be much infection,” says Freed. “It’s totally normal to experience slight bleeding, ‘crusties’ (dead skin cells), swelling, tenderness, itching, bruising, or soreness. These symptoms will typically only last a few weeks.” But if you experience any symptoms outside of these, Freed recommends checking in with your doctor.

Bond stresses that “as long as you follow good after care - no sleeping on it, change your pillowcase regularly, no swimming for the first month after the piercing and keeping it dry after cleaning - you shouldn’t have many issues." You should also resist the temptation to change your jewellery before your piercing is fully healed.

What happens if your body rejects it?

“Most people can have some sort of helix piercing," adds Beizsley, ”but a forward helix is very anatomy dependent. If a person hasn't got a big enough area there to pierce, it could migrate and grow out of the cartilage." Lamb adds that it’s rare for a helix piercing to reject, but that the most common irritants are accidentally knocking, sleeping on it, or prolonged pressure, such as riding helmets. 

What’s the average cost?

Prices vary depending on the piercer you use and the jewellery you purchase. For example, Astrid & Miyu charge a flat rate service fee of £20 per 20-minute appointment, which includes a maximum of three piercings. Their jewellery ranges from £35-£55 each (for titanium piercing jewellery) and £100-£195 each (for solid gold piercing jewellery). You'll find cheaper services than that, but investing in the right piercing jewellery will limit your chances of irritation and infection. See below for the different metals options, which are more of an indication of the final cost.

What metal is best for a helix piercing? 

It is important to be pierced with a hypoallergenic metal to avoid the risk of infections or complications while your new piercing is healing. More expensive, yes, but less likely to cause issues. Bond recommends solid 14k gold, adding that metals such as sterling silver, gold plate and 9k gold should only be worn once the piercing is fully healed. Medical-grade titanium is also a good option and the metal of choice for Beizsley.

As always, our professional piercers recommend needle piercings (no guns!), using a labret bar with no butterfly backs, until healed. 

In need of a little inspiration for your new helix bling? Scroll on.

Dripping with diamonds

A helix hoop is cute, but bonus points for dangling detail that sparkles when it catches the light. We also approve of matching your helix to your lobe. 

Curated ear

The most stunning curated ear, with some fantasy-themed flat helix piercings stealing the show. 

Upwards arrow

A stand-alone flat-helix piercing that manages to steal all the attention. Also proof that mixed metals really work.

Seeing Stars

A classic helix piercing gets a twist with this starburst stud and connecting chain. The final look: a celestial arrangement you’ll dream about.

In Full Bloom

If you prefer a stud over a hoop but want something a little more eye-catching, a flower earring like this lotus one is the perfect balance.

Pretty in pink

This colorful snakebite piercing is elegant with a little edge. Dress it up or down depending on your mood.

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